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Big Bend

08.10.2020 by Jules // Leave a Comment

Mother Daughter Motorcycle Riders in Big Bend

Content

  • The Wheelie
  • The (Motorcycle) Drop
  • The Ride to Terlingua
  • Casa de Creosote
  • Porch Perfection
  • West Texas Sunset
  • First Night Under the Stars
  • Bathroom Business
  • Birthday Morning
  • Big Bend Beauty
  • Big Bend National Park
  • Lajitas
  • Big Bend Ranch State Park
  • End of Our Brutally Beautiful Day

It’s no secret that I love to travel and I love to ride motorcycles, so combining both sounded like a good way to celebrate my 51st birthday. Besides that, I have wanted to visit Big Bend for at least the past 16 years. As I’m not getting any younger, I decided why not make this year “the year” to go? As a Superhost on Airbnb, each year (in the past) I have been offered a choice of $100 in travel credit or professional photography of my listing. I’ve always chosen the travel credit. (Hopefully Airbnb will continue to offer this to their Superhosts!) At any rate, I settled on “Casa de Creosote,” south of Alpine as a good location for visiting Big Bend National Park, Big Bend Ranch State Park, Study Butte, Alpine, and/or Marfa. I very incorrectly assumed that as this area was “way out in West Texas,” everything would be open and not closed due to COVID. Wrong! At the very least, I WAS confident (and correct) that “Casa de Creosote” was not close to anyone.

The Wheelie

I didn’t plan to start my birthday weekend out with a wheelie or rough landing, however, I managed to accomplish both within the first 3 hours of takeoff.

I’ve done several motorcycle road trips in the US, the longest one lasting 2 weeks through South Dakota, Wyoming and Montana. Each time, I flew to the “originating destination” where I rented a motorcycle and carried everything I needed on the motorcycle with me. Not one time have I ever dropped a bike during one of my rides and I have no idea how many miles I’ve ridden. To be clear, I’ve always rented a Harley Davidson. It didn’t matter if I weighed 123 lbs. soaking wet with 3 suitcases strapped to a 900 lb. bike, but it sure as hell made a difference on this “mid-weight bike” (weighing in at about 470 lbs.) with all cases mounted in the rear.

I’ve been known to overlook the obvious a time or two. This was one of those times. I never thought about the fact that I was NOT riding a Harley and that my 138 lbs. would most definitely NOT be any kind of counter-balance for food, my suitcase and, in my kids’ words, “the whole house.” I popped a wheelie half-way down my street before I figured out that I had waaaay overloaded my friend’s bike I had borrowed for this trip. I still marvel at the fact that I didn’t wreck the bike and put myself in the hospital right out of the gate, but somehow I managed to stop the bike, shut it off and carry the food (top case in the pic) back to my house. I then proceeded to get back on the bike (albeit with wobbly knees) and head towards Junction, which was the rendezvous point for meeting up with my kids, as they were riding from Austin. As a side note: never let anyone tell you that not being able to flat foot your motorcycle doesn’t matter. It does. It might not matter when you’re just zipping around town, but when you’re riding in hilly, uneven and rough terrain; it surely does. (For all those who say it doesn’t matter, I want to watch you back a motorcycle up when you’re on a steep, gravely hill with the nose of your bike pointed downward and you can barely reach the ground with the tips of your toes. No turning; just straight backup the bike. Oh yeah, and having “reverse” doesn’t count!)

The Drop

By the time I had put away the food I thought was necessary for our 2 day excursion, I was worried I would be late to Junction. So I sped, (I mean hustled), on up to Junction and pulled into the Chevron where we had agreed to meet. I saw a nice shade tree and decided that would be an excellent place to park and wait. Except when I attempted to park, the bike was still so overloaded that I just laid it over.

Junction, TX our rendezvous point and the site of the infamous “bike drop.”
Nope, not even one egg was broken in “the drop.”

My kid’s’ conversation, (according to them), who had just pulled into the Chevron minutes (seconds?) before I did:

“Hey, look at that guy who just dumped their bike, should we go hel…..?!?”

“Hey! That’s mom!!”

— The Kids
Pencil drawing of Don Quixote

Aaaand, my kids came running to help me right the bike. Nothing like starting off on a long motorcycle ride all “up in my head” in all the wrong ways! In truth, the Kawasaki Versys has a very high center of balance,–not at all what I what I would choose or am comfortable with. I made a very bad error in judgement thinking that the cases (added to the bike since I had last ridden it) would lower it. This was true in part, however, ALL weight (as my son pointed out) was behind the rear axle. All was not lost, (other than my dignity and confidence) and my son took the majority of the weight from the motorcycle I was riding and put it on his Honda Africa Twin motorcycle he had rented. (Thank you son!!)

But, what’s life without a little humor, eh? My kids had a delightful day, never missing one opportunity to remind me of my mishap.

The Ride

My daughter convinced me to borrow one of her full-face helmets as it had bluetooth capabilities prior to this trip. I’ve never been a big fan of the full-face helmets, however, I will admit having the bluetooth for communication purposes was very nice.

No, son was not happy that he had to strap my suitcase to his motorcycle.
First time wearing a full-face helmet. I survived!

Long, Hot Ride

Our ride ended up taking us over 8 hours. To say that we were all tired, hot, thirsty with sore rear ends might be the understatement of the year,–but the main thing was we made it safely to our destination before darkness fell. This was a pretty important goal as our “road sign” was a rock.

Of course, I had had to endure endless teasing all day about dropping my motorcycle,–so there was that.

Our Turn Off “Sign”

Seeing our cabin come into view was a welcome relief. Even though our host Jim was in Knoxville, TN on vacation, he left behind a feline welcoming committee. It was only a matter of a few minutes before they made us feel right at home…..

Casa De Creosote

This was an awesome rocker/glider. It felt so good to finally relax and put my feet up!
Our three motorcycles parked at "Casa De Creosote" in Terlingua, Texas
We Made It!
Cat sitting on the passengers seat of my motorcycle, ready to take a ride?
Our friendly felines didn’t appear too afraid of the motorcycles. This one was ready for a ride! (I didn’t test that theory!)
Feeding the cats.
These “poor, skinny cats” were heavy, muscle-tough panthers in disguise! They would easily swing from a window to the roof without so much as twitching a whisker! But, they still enjoyed the wet cat food our host left behind.

Porch Perfection

The porch was wonderful! A cool breeze was blowing when we arrived and kept up throughout the evening and night. It was the “gathering place.” A place to sit and talk, reminisce, watch the sun go down and come up. Oh, and it was center stage for the cats: Franky, Chaco and Capitan.

Looking towards Nine Point Mesa in Terlingua, Texas.
View From the Front Porch

A West Texas Sunset & a Cat on a Hot Roof?

There is a place in Far West Texas where night skies are dark as coal and rivers carve temple-like canyons in ancient limestone. Here, at the end of the road, hundreds of bird species take refuge in a solitary mountain range surrounded by weather-beaten desert. Tenacious cactus bloom in sublime southwestern sun, and diversity of species is the best in the country. This magical place is Big Bend…

Big Bend National Park (Texas’ Gift to the Nation)
West Texas sunset in Terlingua.
A perfect painting of pastels as the sun was setting.

First Night

The first night passed uneventfully for the most part, although one of the cats (black and white) had taken quite a shine to my son. Understandably, he expressed his devotion throughout the night by bringing him a “living (mouse) present.” My kids slept outside on the patio, so this made them fair game.

Daughter relaxing in hammock on front porch in Terlingua, Texas.
Daughter relaxing on the porch. (Actually her bed the first night!)

Bathroom Business

Should you ever decide to go and visit, you will most definitely be escorted to the bathroom (outhouse) or bushes by both young cats. In fact, they appeared to think it was their duty to do their business at the same time as we humans were going about our business.

The second night this caused my son some minor concern as he was sure he heard some “unusual noises.” Upon further investigation, a glance skyward revealed eight paws and the anatomy of two tom-cats resting on the plexiglass roof of the outhouse. They were definitely keeping an eye out for anything or anyone. I dubbed them the “PC’s”–short for “Patrol Cats.” Momma Cat, on the other hand, very wisely chose to go to sleep up off the ground and just under the roof of the main cabin where nothing (not even her offspring), could disturb her.

As our host had asked that we not urinate in the outhouse, my daughter and I invested in “Sunanies” prior to leaving home. I just remember hoping that the cats didn’t get too close as I wasn’t extremely adept at using my Sunany. They (smart cats!) wisely kept a safe distance.

Birthday Morning Sunrise

  • Terlingua Sunrise
  • Terlingua Sunrise
  • Terlingua Sunrise
  • Terlingua Sunrise
  • Terlingua Sunrise

After waking up early enough to enjoy the sunrise, we definitely had to make use of the eggs that had survived the infamous bike drop and the refried beans that daughter had brought. Knowing me well, she only brought 3 cans although I had suggested 6-8. (Insert laugh-cry emoji.)

Big Bend

Fortified with food and fluids, we had a hard time making up our mind where we were going to ride. We knew Big Bend National Park was closed, however had purchased day passes for Big Bend Ranch State Park. Even so, we were slow getting back on the road. I wasn’t all that keen on riding my own bike, truth be told. Originally I was going to ride on the back of my son’s bike. As mentioned, I don’t care for riding a motorcycle when I can’t “flat-foot” the bike. In all of my previous motorcycle road trips, I have never dumped a bike, nor felt as “unsure” as I did on this trip. Definitely MY error in judgement in “assuming” I would be comfortable with the bike I was riding. At the last minute though, I decided to go for it. I noticed I wasn’t part of the bluetooth conversations most of the day, and was subject to numerous eye rolls on the part of my (non) patient children. Then again, everyone’s patience runs a little thin when the temperature is pushing 106* or so…🙄

Study Butte
Big Bend National Park was closed due to COVID.

Big Bend National Park – Closed

Big Bend National Park with closed sign at entry.
Big Bend National Park was closed when we were there; August 1st – 3rd, 2020.

We still went ahead and rode to the entrance of Big Bend National Park. We had decided to go wherever the day took us, which basically consisted of heading down FM 170 towards Lajitas.

Lajitas

It was brutally hot and getting hotter by the time we pulled off at Lajitas Golf Resort. We were sweaty, thirsty and hungry. I went into their lobby to find out exactly where we were in relation to a particular swimming hole we were looking for. (The swimming hole was a lot farther down the road in Big Bend Ranch State Park.) The lady at the front desk was super helpful and knowledgable about the area. She gave me a map and marked the swimming hole we were dreaming of. After consulting with my kids, the popular vote was to stay there and eat lunch and then go swimming in the Rio Grande, which runs right behind the resort.

We found a shady spot to park our motorcycles and headed to the Candelilla Cafe. My kids bought me birthday lunch which included a “Prickly Pear Margarita” which was particularly delicious!

Three people standing in front of water fountain at Lajitas Golf Resort in Lajitas, Texas.
My kids and I at Lajitas Golf Resort

Lajitas Golf Resort is a really cool little place. From the reviews I saw on Tripadvisor, many people think it’s overpriced, however, just like everything else in this area, it is more difficult to bring in supplies, retain good help, etc. For us it was, quite literally, an oasis in the middle of the desert with an interesting history. I’ve never had the bottom of my feet feel like they were on fire through my shoes due to the heat! While the lack of people/crowds was nice, the next time I visit this area, it will be in the fall. Visiting between October through May gives you your best shot at cooler weather.

Woman swimming in Rio Grande along border in Lajitas, Texas.
Daughter in Rio Grande

First time ever in the Rio Grande! I learned that it’s really dirty water (or at least it was where we were at), but we were so hot no one really cared and the current is amazingly strong. We didn’t stay too long before we got back on the bikes and the road again!

Big Bend Ranch State Park

Did you know Big Bend Ranch State Park is the largest State park in Texas? Although we had day passes, we didn’t have near enough time to see everything we wanted to. Hopefully the next time I return, COVID won’t be a factor and I’ll have a few extra days to spend.

Riding in beautiful Big Bend Country!
Big Bend Ranch State Park was open.
  • This was the point where I waited while my kids rode on to the next lookout.
  • Quiet Canyon

End of the brutally beautiful day…

Link to more photos taken on the road: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOWqUzxVDbz5u4fN6PYAh-ms9eFktCc38YMjmQaoochBcW7bkBsvcl0PpZwTHaQ7A?key=SkpFSmJVQ2xreW1VUExKSVJVOEdDQ3RxSzRyNVFR

We made it back to “Casa de Creosote” before dark and opened the windows to let the breeze in although there wasn’t nearly as much of a breeze the second night as there was the previous one. I felt so sweaty and gross I tried out the “solar shower”. It did the job and I felt a lot better after getting rid of the days grime.

The original hardware in “Casa de Creosote” was fun to look at & use!
Solar shower in the great outdoors!

Truly my only regret, (besides my motorcycle mishap), was that we didn’t have more time to stay. I wish we would have planned on one full day to do nothing but sit on the front patio at “Casa de Creosote” and relax. As it stands, this was one of my happiest birthdays as it was spent with my kids making memories.

I love traveling full stop – so while I’ve had some harrowing instances, I never look at them negatively. Memories are made when you’re traveling – not when you’re chained to your desk.

Richard Branson

Helpful Links

Here are some links you might find helpful if you’re traveling to the Big Bend area:

  • Big Bend App w/Guide Narration: https://visitbigbend.com/mobileapp/
  • Big Bend Chat: https://bigbendchat.com/ Also has an app. Found this to be a super helpful place to ask questions of the locals.
  • Big Bend Suggested Itineraries: https://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/suggested-itineraries.htm
  • Motorcycling in Big Bend: https://visitbigbend.com/motorcycles/
  • Online Registration: https://texasstateparks.reserveamerica.com/unifSearch.do
  • Park Permits & Registration: https://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/permitsandreservations.htm
  • Stargazing in Texas State Parks: https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/parks/things-to-do/stargazing-in-state-parks

Central Park

09.17.2017 by Jules // Leave a Comment

Central Park UWS Manhattan

Central Park UWS Manhattan

New York City Central Park in September 2017

Central Park in New York City

September Day; kids at play UWS Central Park NYC

Central Park New York City Manhattan
Central Park in September

Central Park Walking the Dogs
Dog Walking in Central Park

Hayden Planetarium in New York City
American Museum of Natural History

American Museum of Natural History in New York City
American Museum of Natural History

Hayden Planetarium in American Museum of Natural History in NYC
Hayden Planetarium

Colorado Camping

07.23.2017 by Jules // Leave a Comment

Camping In Colorado

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. ~ John Muir

I’ve seen the mountains in the East and I’ve seen the mountains in the West,  and West, well, West is best.

After doing a little research online, I’ve come across some great resources that I’d like to share.  You can search for places to camp in Colorado here:  https://campcolorado.com/campground-search and download Colorado’s Most Complete Campground Guide.

Explore Your America here, for a wealth of information.  Register, and you can plan/save links and info for your trip.

First time camper? A ton of resources can be found here: https://www.nwf.org/Great-American-Campout/Camping-Resources.aspx.

Perfect Places

  • 99 Gorgeous Places in CO
  • All Trails
  • Bureau of Land Management
  • CO Campground Guide
  • Colorado Mountain Club
  • Colorado Parks & Wildlife
  • Colorado Travel Resources
  • Free Camping
  • Go Camping America
  • Hiking and Backpacking
  • Interactive Colorado Map
  • Mountain Biking
  • National Forests | Wildfire Info
  • National Park Service
  • Outdoor Recreation Center
  • REI Expert Advice
  • Recreation.gov
  • Reserve America
  • Rocky Mountain Webcams
  • Safety and Health
  • Unique Lodging
  • Vacation Guide

While you’re at it, be sure to pick up your Federal Recreation Access Pass.

Camping Checklist
Gunnison Gorge Wilderness Area

“Mountains seem to answer an increasing imaginative need in the West. More and more people are discovering a desire for them, and a powerful solace in them. At bottom, mountains, like all wildernesses, challenge our complacent conviction – so easy to lapse into – that the world has been made for humans by humans. Most of us exist for most of the time in worlds which are humanly arranged, themed and controlled. One forgets that there are environments which do not respond to the flick of a switch or the twist of a dial, and which have their own rhythms and orders of existence. Mountains correct this amnesia. By speaking of greater forces than we can possibly invoke, and by confronting us with greater spans of time than we can possibly envisage, mountains refute our excessive trust in the man-made. They pose profound questions about our durability and the importance of our schemes. They induce, I suppose, a modesty in us.” ― Robert Macfarlane

Safety

Sure, it seems obvious, but don’t feed the bears…… If you insist on bear watching, check out these webcams. (Alaska) or in real life: https://www.wildlifeworldwide.com/discover/wildlife/bear-watching/locations.

It's bear season, keep the doors closed!

Yep, even if you’re not “roughing it”, you still need to have some “bear smarts”.

Mountain Stream in Telluride Colorado
At Mountainside Inn in Telluride, CO

Favorite Day Hikes


Other Fun & Helpful Links:

Buy a Pass

Camping Picks

Explore Your Lands

Places That Rock

US Fish & Wildlife Service

Tread Lightly Outdoor Camping Etiquette
Tread Lightly

Giani Countertop Paint Kit

06.14.2017 by Jules // Leave a Comment

Giani Kitchen Countertop Paint Kit

Pink countertops.  Peach countertops.  Yep, for so long I’ve heard comments about the color of my countertops.  So, I finally decided to try out a paint kit, “Giani Countertop Paint Kit in Bombay Black“.  It has good ratings on amazon, and I figured that for under $100, I would give it a try before replacing my infamous peach countertops.

Kitchen Before Giani Countertop Treatment
Before

Kitchen After Giani Countertops
After

I would have to say it was a little more tedious/time consuming, (you have to allow drying time between each “layer”), than I thought it would be, however, I’m very pleased with the results.  I watched the videos before attempting the project which are really helpful.

It’s amazing how much paint can change the look of a room,–and even more amazing; I’ll never have to hear, “peach countertops” again. (I’m hoping!)

Giani Countertop Paint Kit in Bombay Black
Giani Countertop Paint Kit in Bombay Black

Durango | Silverton Train

03.31.2015 by Jules // Leave a Comment

Durango & Silverton Train

Although the last time I saw this train I was riding a Harley and not the train, I will be back to ride the rails. There are no pictures and no words to describe the magnificence and majesty, the feelings of freedom and wonderful insignificance that just “being” in these beautiful mountains awakens. I fell in love with the rugged, rustic beauty of Colorado.

Check out “Railroading The Rockies” for the ultimate rail journey.

Read All Aboard Magazine

 
Silverton & Durango Train
September 2010
Durango & Silverton Train
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
Silverton & Durango Train
Durango, Colorado

4-Corners - Colorado - Arizona
Arizona – Colorado

Grand Canyon - AZ
Grand Canyon - Arizona
Grand Canyon
Durango & Silverton Train
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
Silverton & Durango Train
Durango, Colorado
Grand Canyon - Arizona
Grand Canyon - Arizona
Grand Canyon - Arizona
End Of the Ride
Million Dollar Highway in Colorado
Colorado
Colorado Color

Motorcycling

Beartooth Pass

09.19.2013 by Jules //

Custer State Park - Hairpin Turns

Beartooth Pass


 

Wild West on Wheels

South Dakota – Custer State Park

09.06.2013 by Jules // Leave a Comment

South Dakota - Mount Rushmore State

Custer State Park Granite Peaks
Granite Peaks – Custer State Park

 

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September 6th, 2013 – The much anticipated “Wild West” ride begins.  Left Texas to be greeted by a heat wave in South Dakota.  Started out the day at Black Hills Harley-Davidson in Rapid City.

Kind of forgot the heat and the rain amidst the rugged beauty, or maybe, just maybe, it was the the hairpin curves in Custer State Park.

South-Dakota-Map
Click On Map to Enlarge

  • 2015 Custer State Park Guide
  • Map of Custer State Park

Custer State Park - Hairpin Turns
Needles Highway

 

I go to South Dakota for ceremonies when I have the time. And when you learn what the Indian peoples have gone through to hold onto their culture and traditions… wow, it’s an amazing story.

Adam Beach

Custer State Park - Buffalo
No, you’re not supposed to feed or try to pet the buffalo.

Lake Sylvan
Lake Sylvan – Custer State Park

Lake-Sylvan
Lake Sylvan

Next, on to:

Mount Rushmore - South Dakota
Mt Rushmore

 

Four Corners

09.05.2010 by Jules // Leave a Comment

Four Corners

4-Corners - Colorado - Arizona

 

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